The Café at Country It's hard to imagine just how much money chef (and de facto stylist) Geoffrey Zakarian spent on adorable accessories here, like the beautiful little flasks of olive oil on every table that sell for $25 each at the Norma Kamali boutique next door. Zakarian uses cute mini Staub cast-iron skillets and tiny casseroles throughout the meal‹as in his appetizers of soft-boiled egg with crisp ham and asparagus marmalade, or roasted artichokes topped with Parmesan shavings and aged balsamic. Upstairs, underneath a restored stained-glass dome, there's a swank Champagne bar with 40 choices by the glass and a clever array of condiments (brandied apricots, flavored sugars). The second floor is also the setting for Zakarian's more serious restaurant, Country (not open at press time), where he'll serve a set menu that will change every two weeks: fennel tarte Tatin, sea urchin pappardelle, turbot with celeriac cream.